The cost of Everest climbing permits will increase by 36% from early autumn 2025, but this news does not come as a surprise, as it was reported earlier. The real uncertainty is caused by a possible new decision – to ban climbers who climb alone from climbing all Nepalese eight-thousanders. This means that climbing Nepalese eight-thousanders without Sherpa support – may be prohibited.
This single line, often overlooked in reports on rising prices, states that anyone climbing Everest must hire a guide. One guide is responsible for a maximum of two clients. It is unclear whether a foreign guide can be considered a guide.
Nepal has not yet banned ascents without oxygen, as China has already done for the north face of Everest. In any case, the guide’s Sherpa often has a spare oxygen system.
In recent years, the need for a mandatory guide has been much discussed, especially after the tragic death of Suhajda Silar from Hungary. Suhajda tried to climb Everest alone without supplementary oxygen. He died on his last outing.
Others saw Silar walking very slowly or sitting on the “Balcony” at 8,400 meters. One of the climbers took a photo of Suhajda, and this turned out to be the last photo of the Hungarian in his lifetime.
Some companies offer Everest tours to independent climbers, charging for base camp, use of ladders in the Khumbu Icefall, and fixed ropes along the route. Other companies accept climbers who do not use oxygen, but only if they are accompanied by at least one Sherpa.
Guiding services will become more expensive, as the fee for Nepalese climbers to climb Everest has also increased from $550 to $1,100.
I wonder if solo ascents, like the continuation of Jost Kobusch’s epic on Everest, will be possible next winter?
This rule applies not only to Everest, but to all eight-thousanders in Nepal. If this happens, the era of independent ascents on many of the 14 eight-thousanders will come to an end. Mandatory accompaniment by Sherpas will completely change the nature of ascents.
The new rules seem to take another step towards ensuring safety on the highest peaks of Nepal. Connoisseurs may object that there is no real mountaineering on eight-thousanders anyway. Everyone already uses fixed ropes and beaten paths.
I wonder if the support of Sherpas ensures a decrease in mortality on eight-thousanders and, in particular, on Everest. Over the past two years, the number of victims on Everest has been considerable. However, with the exception of Suhayda Shilard, the rest were either climbers with support, or guides or porters.
While autumn expeditions are rare, the price of a permit increases from $5,500 to $7,500 in September, half the price of a spring expedition.
The real blow will come in spring 2026, when the price of an Everest permit will increase from $11,000 to $15,000. However, this is unlikely to affect wealthy clients who already pay over $100,000 for a fully serviced Everest ascent. The increase will mainly affect those looking for the lowest rates (still over $40,000).
Winter permits are cheaper than autumn permits, but are also becoming more expensive. If Jost Kobusch returns to Everest next winter, with or without a Sherpa, he will have to pay $1,000 more. The cost of a permit from December to February has increased from $2,750 to $3,750.
The rules were approved on January 8, but have not yet been officially published, and the details remain unclear. It remains to be seen how climbers and tour operators adapt or find a way to interpret the rules in accordance with their interests.
Source: alp.org.ua