History of Everest Exploration, Part 1 – Mountain Exploration (1849 – 1953)

Exploration of the Everest region and attempts to reach its summit began long before the first successful ascent, made on May 29, 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. For a long time, the English colonial administration did not give permission for expeditions to the Everest region – the first such expedition took place only in 1921. Initially, attempts to reach the summit were made from the north, from the Tibetan side. However, success was achieved in the southern direction – from Nepal, through the Khumbu Icefall. This route was first chosen by the 1950 expedition led by the American C.S. Houston, after Nepal opened its borders to foreign expeditions in 1950.

Europeans first saw Everest in 1849. They were members of the English geodetic expedition led by George Everest. The peak was mapped and designated as “Peak XV” and in 1965 was named in honor of its discoverer (Sir George Everest himself was against it). The original names of the peak are Tibetan – Chomolungma (Chomolungmo) and Nepalese – Sagarmatha. Its height (originally 8839 meters) was calculated a few years later – and it turned out to be the highest peak on Earth. An expedition to Everest was planned back in the century before last by the Englishman Julius Behrens (1827-1888), inspired, apparently, by his successful ascent of Mont Blanc. The idea remained unrealized.

1892. The October issue of the Nineteenth Century magazine features an article by Clinton Dent entitled “Can Everest Be Conquered?” The answer is yes.

1893. Lieutenant C. H. Bruce and Captain F. E. Younghusband are in Shitral discussing the possibility of climbing Everest.

1899. Viceroy of India Lord Curzon writes to D. W. Freshfield that he is trying to obtain permission from the Nepalese government to climb Everest.

1904. Captain C. H. Rowling leads a party from Lhasa to Gartok and on to Simla. Along the way they survey the northern slopes of Everest.

1905. The English Alpine Club discusses a plan to attack Kanchenjunga or Everest with the participation of Bruce and the Gurkhas.

1907. The Times newspaper reports that the Secretary of State for British India has not given sanction for an ascent of Everest. The newspaper also publishes the composition of the planned expedition, the ideological inspirer of which was Lord Curzon: leader – C.G. Bruce, participants – Dr. T.G. Longstaff, Dr. A.L. Mamm, three alpine guides and six Gurkhas.

1908. Bruce develops a new plan: to approach the mountain from Nepal along the Dudh Kosi River valley.

1909. Bruce first hears the name Chomo Lungmo from a Sherpa.

1911. Lord Curzon applies to the Maharajah of Nepal for permission to climb Everest.

1913. Captain J. B. Noel, dressed as a Muslim, sets out from Darjeeling with a local guide through northwestern Sikkim to the Langu Pass in Tibet. When they are only 40 miles from the mountain, a detachment of Tibetan soldiers appears and forces them to turn back.

1918. The Royal Geographical Society resumes negotiations for permission for an Everest expedition.

1920. Lieutenant Colonel C. K. Howard-Bury, while in India, negotiates with Sir Charles Bell, the Political Commissioner in Sikkim, representing Great Britain in Lhasa, and with the Viceroy of India.

1921. The first reconnaissance expedition, led by Lieutenant Colonel C. K. Howard-Bury, nine participants. Dr. A. M. Kellas dies en route. Possible approaches to Everest from the east and north, the Main and West Rongbuk glaciers, are explored, from where J.L. Mallory and J.H. Bullock try to get to the Western Cirque of the Khumbu Glacier, which they see from a ridge northeast of Pumori. The icefall seems steep to them and the chances of reaching the saddle between Everest and the southern summit (Lhotse) are almost zero. On September 24, Bullock, Mallory and E.O. Hiller reach the East Rongbuk Glacier via the Kharta Glacier and ascend to Chang La (North Col, 6990 m).

1921. Royal Geographical The Society and the English Alpine Club create the Everest Committee, which later organizes a number of expeditions.

1922. The second expedition: leader Bruce, thirteen participants and five Gurkhas. The North Col was reached from the East Rongbuk Glacier. On May 21, Mallory, Major E.F. Norton and Dr. T.G. Somervell reached an altitude of 8,225 m without oxygen equipment. Captain J. Bruce, the leader’s nephew, and Captain J.I. Finch, using additional oxygen, climbed to an altitude of 8,320 (or 8,325) m on May 27. During the third attempt at the summit, seven Sherpas died in an avalanche. Oxygen apparatus was tested for the first time. In 1924, the participants of this expedition (13 people) received Olympic medals from the hands of Baron de Coubertin.

1924. The Third British expedition: leader C.G. Bruce, ten participants and four Gurkhas. On the way Bruce falls ill with malaria. Norton takes over the leadership of the expedition. Norton and Somervell climb to an altitude of 8540 m. Then Norton alone reaches 8570 m (8572 m) without oxygen. This record stood until 1978. E.K. Irvine and J.L. Mallory made an attempt to reach the summit and did not return. N.E. Odell saw them at an altitude of 8530 m.

1933. The next expedition: leader H. Ruttledge, fourteen participants, two liaison officers and five Gurkhas. The North Col is reached. P. Wyn Harris, J. Longland, L. E. Wager and five porters reach 8,350 m on 30 May. About 20 m below the ridge, 230 m east of the “first step”, Wyn Harris and Wager find an ice axe. It could only have belonged to Irvine or Mallory. Wyn Harris and Wager reach 8,570 m. The same height is reached the following day by F. Smythe, his partner E. E. Shipton having returned earlier. Houston’s expedition organised the first overflight of Everest in two Westland biplanes. Vertical measurements are taken and the entire massif is photographed.

1934. M. Wilson makes an attempt to climb Everest alone via the North Col. He walks through Tibet dressed as a monk, pretending to be deaf and dumb. He dies of exhaustion in his tent under the North Col.

1935. A small reconnaissance (fifth British) expedition: head E.E. Shipton, eight members, in their hTenzing Norgay. The party climbs the North Col. Shipton explores the Western Cirque of the Khumbu Glacier and establishes that an ascent from the south side is possible. H. W. Tilman and E. H. Wigram conclude that the lower part of the western ridge from the Lho La Pass is impassable. Wilson’s body is found on the East Rongbuk Glacier.

1936. Sixth (British) expedition: leader H. Ruttledge. The expedition is forced to return due to the early onset of the monsoon.

1938 year. Seventh British expedition: leader H. W. Tilman. Tilman and three other expedition members climb to an altitude of 8300 m.

1945. An expedition led by Shipton is planned. In 1946-47, climbers are not allowed into Tibet.

1947. Canadian I. Denman makes an attempt at a solo ascent. With Tenzing Norgay and Ang Dawa, he secretly travels through Tibet to Rongbuk. The three of them climb to the North Col.

1950. Nepal opens its borders to foreign expeditions. In the same year, China occupies Tibet, which closes the routes to Everest from the north to foreigners for many years. A group of five people, led by American C.S. Houston, goes from Kathmandu to Solo-Khumbu. Houston and Tilman (a member of the 1933 expedition and the leader in 1938) go to the Khumbu glacier and study its powerful icefall. Tilman expresses the opinion that the most favorable month for climbing is October.

1951. Dane C.B. Larsen makes an attempt at a solo ascent. He leaves Darjeeling, heads for the Dudh Kosi valley and Namche Bazar. From Namche Bazar through the Nangpa La pass, west of Cho Oyu, he enters Tibet and from Kietrak goes to Rongbuk. At the North Col the Sherpas leave him and descend.

British reconnaissance expedition, led by E.E. Shipton. In Nepal they are joined by New Zealanders E.P. Hillary and H.I. Readyford. They pass most of the Khumbu Icefall (before reaching the Western Cirque – the “Valley of Silence”) and find out the possibilities of reaching the Southern Col.

1952. Spring – the first Swiss expedition to Everest: leader, Dr. E. Wyss-Dunant. The Swiss reach (via the Geneva spur) the South Col (7986 m). R. Lambert and Sirdar (Sherpa leader) Tenzing Norgay climb the southeast ridge to an altitude of 8600 m. The success of the expedition exceeded all expectations.

Autumn – the second Swiss expedition: leader G. Chevalley. In the post-monsoon period, he makes a route to the South Col along the Lhotse slope. Since then, this route has become the standard ascent. The autumn expedition reached an altitude of “only” 8100 m.

1953. The tenth British expedition: leader Colonel S. J. Hunt, fourteen participants, including a physiologist and a cameraman. Sirdar – Norgay Tenzing. R. S. Evans and T. D. Bourdillon climbed the South Summit of Everest (8765 m). On May 29, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Everest.

Based on the chronicle of the exploration of Everest, whichwhich Reinhold Messner collected in his book “Crystal Horizon”.

Material prepared by: ALP Project

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History of the first expeditions to Chomolungma (Everest)