After the first ascent of Everest in 1953, the period of its development began – the search for and passage of new routes. At that time, the so-called Himalayan style of ascents was formed – large and long expeditions, preliminary processing of the route, the installation of numerous intermediate camps. Expeditions actively used the help of Sherpas to deliver cargo to the beginning of the route and to climb to the lower camps, ascents were made with the use of additional oxygen. At this time, most of the logical routes to Everest were passed, including technically difficult ones along the Southwest and North Walls. Climbing the classic routes during this period is still a serious achievement, although climbers from many countries climb the now classic route via the South Col.
1953. First ascent of Everest. The Tenth British Expedition led by Colonel S.J. Hunt, fourteen participants, including a physiologist and a cameraman. Sirdar – Norgay Tenzing. R. S. Evans and T. D. Bourdillon climbed to the South Summit of Everest (8765 m).On May 29, New Zealander E. P. Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached the highest point of Everest.
1956. Third Swiss Expedition (Schweizerische Mount Everest-Expedition 1956): leader Albert Egler. Two teams, J. Marmet – E. Schmid (May 23) and H. von Gunten – E. Reiss (May 24) reach the summit. These are the second and third ascents of Everest. On May 18, the members of this expedition, Fritz Lugsinger and Ernst Reiss, made the first ascent of Lhotse (8516).
1958. A large reconnaissance expedition of Chinese climbers (28 climbers, not counting support personnel), which included three Soviet climbers – E.A. Beletsky, A.I. Kovyrkov and L.N. Filimonov. The expedition surveyed the ascent to the Chang La Pass (North Col, 7007 m), the group led by Beletsky examined the optimal route to the pass from the east, and a tactical plan for the ascent was developed. In 1962, K. Kuzmin, E. Beletsky, L. Filimonov and A. Kovyrkov were awarded Chinese gold medals “For the Victory over Chomolungma.”
1959. The Chinese expedition only reached Lhasa. Due to the uprising in Tibet, they changed their route and headed for Mustag-ata in Xinjiang (Pamir). The Soviet climbers never took part in the ascent of Everest.
1960. The English expedition did not receive permission to climb Everest from the north (note – this year was supposed to be “Chinese”). The Chinese expedition made the first successful ascent along the new route through the North Col along the north ridge. The expedition consisted of 214 people, Chinese and Tibetans. Three participants reached the summit at night, having spent more than one daylight hour on the last 300 m (from the beginning of the second stage). Five people set out from Camp 7600 to storm the summit: the leader of the assault group Xu Jing, Wang Fu-zhou, Qu Yin-hua, Liu Lian-man and Gonpo. Gonpo is a Tibetan who has no mountaineering training, but is in phenomenal physical shape. Xu Jing remained at Camp 8500 to provide communications and support for the assault group. Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and Ganpo reached the summit, Liu Liangman reached only 8700.
This ascent is still questioned – there are no photographs above 8100 m, many details of the Chinese description of this ascent are questionable.
At present, along with the route from the South Col, the route from the North is considered classic – the vast majority of ascents are made along these routes.
The Indian expedition (leader G. Singh) was forced toand return due to strong winds and a snowstorm, just before reaching the South Summit.
1962. Three Americans and one Swiss, having deceived the Nepalese authorities, reached the West Rongbuk Glacier via the Nupla Pass and climbed (without permission) from the East Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col. They reached an altitude of 7600 m.
The second Indian expedition reached an altitude of 8450 m.
1963. A powerful American expedition led by N.G. Dyhrenfurth. They split into two groups: one climbed the classic route through the South Col, the other tried to go a new route along the West Ridge. Jim Whittaker and Sherpa Nawang Gombu reached the summit on May 1 via the South Col route (Whittaker became the first American to reach the summit of Everest). The West Ridge group reached the shoulder, where two tents with six expedition members were thrown 30 meters down the slope by the hurricane.
The second team, climbing the classic route – Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad – reached the summit on May 22. A few hours later, W. F. Unsold and T. F. Hornbein reached the summit via the West Ridge and then via the north face couloir, called the Hornbein Couloir (new route), with an approach to the north face. They descended along the southeast ridge to the South Col. This was the first traverse of Everest in history.
For several years, the Chinese have been unsuccessfully trying to storm Everest from the north. The next successful ascent from Tibet will take place only in 1975.
1965. The third Indian expedition led by reserve lieutenant M.S. Koli finally achieved success. Nine people reached the summit along the route from the South Col in four outings.
The Nepalese government banned all activity on Everest. Expeditions from the North were also hampered by political reasons.
A Chinese reconnaissance mission along the northern slope (up to 7,500 m) and further along the northeastern ridge got stuck in deep snow.
1966. The second Chinese expedition from the North Col. This expedition, in the style of the “Great Leap Forward”, was doomed to failure: the Maoists were going without the necessary equipment and were not sufficiently prepared.
1967. A Chinese scientific expedition to the northern slope of Everest. Stations with measuring equipment were installed in the foothills and on the North Col (7000 m).
1968. The Chinese spring expedition from the North Col was again unsuccessful.
After completing the routes along the North and South Ridges, which are now considered “standard”, the attention of the mountaineering elite switched to the walls of Everest. For 6 years, attempts were made to pass Everest’s Southwest Face, this was only possible in 1975 by a British expedition led by Chris Bonnington.
30 – Polish 1980; 32 – Czech attempt 1987, 33 – attempts of the early 70s (the beginning coincides with 34)
34 – Bonnington 1975; 35 – Soviet 1982, to the left is the Korean line of 2009
1969. Autumn. Japaneseth reconnaissance expedition. The possibility of climbing the southwest face from the West Cwm was studied. Japanese climbers reached the central couloir at an altitude of 8050 m.
1970. Japanese expedition. It was divided into two groups: eight people were to go along the southwest face, sixteen – along the classic southeast ridge. Two teams reached the summit from those who went along the classic route from the South Col (four Japanese and one Sherpa).
Japanese ski expedition: thirty-four participants and eight hundred porters. Yuchiro Miura skied from the South Col to the West Cwm (the first ski descent from the slopes of Everest). The two-kilometer descent lasted less than two minutes, a parachute was used for braking, which, however, did not save Miura from falling and sliding down the slope for hundreds of meters. Six Sherpas died in the avalanche.
On May 17, Japanese Setsuko Watanabe, having climbed to 8000 m, set a new altitude record for women.
1971. International expedition: leader Norman G. Dyhrenfurth, thirty participants from thirteen countries. Two groups: one went along the southwest face (up to 8350 m), the second – along the western ridge. The expedition did not reach its goal: Indian climber Major H.V. died. Bahuguna, illnesses began among the participants, conflicts among the participants were widely publicized.
Argentine expedition: leaders J.K. Tolos and K. Comesan. In the post-monsoon period they climbed the classic route from the south, were forced to turn back.
1972. European expedition: leader Dr. K.M. Herligkoffer. It was planned to climb the southwest face. Due to disagreements between the participants, they had to retreat from a height of 8,300 meters.
British expedition: leader K.J.S. Bonington, tried to pass the route along the southwest face in the fall. Abandoned the ascent.
1973. The Great Italian Expedition: leader G. Monzino, sixty-four participants, one hundred Sherpas, two thousand local porters, three helicopters. Two groups (eight people) reached the summit along the standard route from Nepal.
The Great Japanese Expedition: leader M. Yuas, forty-eight participants. This is the first successful autumn ascent of Everest. The expedition was divided into two groups. The group going along the southwest face reached an altitude of 8,380 m. The group of the southern route reached the summit in a group of two people, without setting up an intermediate camp above the saddle. On the descent they had a cold night and frostbite.
1974. The Spanish expedition stops climbing in the pre-monsoon period.
While the French are climbing along the western ridge, an avalanche completely wipes out Camps I and II. The expedition leader (Devuozeau) and five Sherpas die.
The Chinese expedition climbs from the Rongbuk side to the North Col for training purposes.
1975. The Japanese women’s expedition: leader E. Hisano. The first woman to reach the summit via the standard route through the South Col is Junko Tabei (in a team with Sherpa Ang Tsering).
The Great Chinese Expedition: leader Shin Zhanchun (The leader of this expedition was Wang Fuzhou), four hundred participants. The second ascent of Everest from the north. On May 27, nine people (eight Tibetans and one Chinese) reach the summit, including the Tibetan Phantog (Pando) – the second woman on Everest. During this ascent, the famous ladder on the second step of the north-eastern ridge was installed, as well as a tripod on the summit.
The second British expedition: leader Chris Bonington. Successfully overcomes the Southwest Face (new route), climbing the Bonnington Couloir, bypassing the inaccessible Rock Band. Dougal Haston and Doug Scott reach the summit in the first roped team (September 24, during the ascent they spent the night on the South Summit, 8760 m); Peter Boardman and Sherpa Pertemba are in the second. On the descent, about 200 m from the summit, the second roped team unexpectedly meets the expedition’s cameraman Mike Burke (According to other sources, Burke was met 50 m from the summit), who is heading towardsalone on the peak and intends to catch up with them on the descent. Burke reached the summit on September 26. He was never seen again. This is the first solo summit of Everest.
1976. Nepal-British Army Expedition: leader T. Streeter. Two climbers reach the summit from the South Col via the southeast ridge. One participant died.
American Expedition: leader F. Trimble. Two climbers – Bob Cormack and Chris Chandler ascended to the summit from the South Col via the southeast ridge.
1977. New Zealand expedition reaches only the South Col. This is the first expedition without Sherpa support.
In the autumn, a South Korean expedition manages to very quickly ascend to the summit via the classic route from the South Col. The summits are reached by San Don Ko and Sherpa Pemba Norbu.
1978. A large Iranian-Chinese expedition passes along the northern ridge to an altitude of 7500 m.
The Austrian expedition, led by Wolfgang Nairz, climbs the classic route from the south. The first ascent of Everest without additional oxygen is made by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler (May 8, on the second attempt) – independent participants of this expedition. Neiritz, five climbers (among them the first German R. Karl) and one Sherpa reach the summit on May 3, 11 and 13. F. Oppurg makes a solo ascent – the second solo ascent of Everest. Robert Schauer (21) becomes the youngest person to climb Everest.
A film was made about this ascent – Everest Unmasked.
German expedition: leader K. Herligkoffer. French expedition: leader P. Mazo. The expeditions work together. From October 14 to 19, seven Germans, three French, one Polish, one Swiss, one Austrian and three Sherpas reach the summit. All of them ascended from the South Col.
The second ascent without supplemental oxygen was made by Hans Engl on October 10. The third by Sherpas Ang Dorjee and Mingma on October 17. The Englishman and the Sherpas ascended together with other participants who, using oxygen apparatus, cleared the way for them. Hans Engl claimed that without the tracks laid by Sepp Mack, he would not have reached the summit. The third female ascent was made by Polish Wanda Rutkiewicz.
1979. A strong Yugoslav expedition passes the entire western ridge (new route) in the pre-monsoon period. At the top of the ridge, they had to go to the northern side to bypass the steep rock step – the “Grey Step”. On May 13, 1979, Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Jernej Zaplotnik reached the summit.
A Japanese scientific expedition comes from the north. Three Chinese die in an avalanche.
An international expedition in the post-monsoon period. The German group (leader Dr. Gerhard Schmatz), thanks to good relations between the participants, managed to climb to the summit in several groups. During the descent, Hannelore Schmatz and Ray Genet die of exhaustion.
1980 was a very successful year on Everest – three new routes, the first winter ascent and the first complete (from base camp) solo ascent.
Polish expedition. Firstth winter ascent of Everest. On February 17, in strong wind and frost, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reach the summit. This is great luck, but in Nepal the ascent was not registered as winter (winter ascents must be made in December and January). This was the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander, which gave rise to a series of winter expeditions to the Himalayas – by 1988, Polish climbers had climbed 7 eight-thousanders in winter.
The large Japanese expedition split into two groups in Rongbuk. One of them managed the first complete ascent of the north face – they climbed directly to the base of the Hornbein couloir and along it further to the summit, which was reached by Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro. The second group repeated the classic route along the north and then along the northeast ridge. Japanese climber Yasuo Kato is the first non-Sherpa to climb Everest twice.
Spanish expedition. In May, the Basques conquer Everest. This is the first success of the Spaniards on the highest peak in the world.
The Polish expedition led by Andrzej Zawada makes the first ascent along the southern bastion, located between the southwest wall and the southeast ridge. Up to Camp 3, this route coincides with the classic route from the south. Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka climbed to the summit. This route has become quite popular – more than 50 climbers have reached the summit of Everest along it.
In August (during the monsoon period), R. Messner reaches the summit alone, without the use of additional oxygen and in alpine style (except for throwing a backpack with equipment under the North Col). He goes from the assault camp on the East Rongbuk Glacier under the North Col, then traverses the slope and climbs to the north-east ridge along the Norton Couloir – thereby bypassing the difficult sections on the ridge. This ascent became an important milestone in Himalayan mountaineering, showing that it is possible to climb eight-thousanders not only in the Himalayan style.
In the fall, the Nepalese-Italian expedition climbed the classic route from the south. 2 people died: Nawang Kersang (Sherpa) and Mario Piana (Italian).
In total, 8 new routes were climbed on Everest by the end of 1980:
1. Via the South Col along the southeast ridge (classic route from the south) – May 29, 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.
2. Via the North Col along the north ridge (classic from the north) – May 25, 1960, Chinese expedition, Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and Ganpo or the Chinese expedition of 1975 (9 people reached the summit on May 27)
3. Along the west ridge and further along the Hornbein couloir – May 22, 1965, Willy Unsold and Tom Hornbein, American expedition.
4. Along the southwest face (Bonnington couloir) – British expedition of 1975, September 24 Haston and Scott, on the 25th Peter Boardman, Sherpa Pertemba and Michael Burke (died on descent)
5. West Ridge – Yugoslav expedition, May 13, 1979, Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Jernej Zaplotnik.
6. North Face (Hornbein Couloir) – Japanese expedition of 1980, May 10, Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro
7. South Bastion – Polish route, May 19, 1980, Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka
8. From the North Col along the Norton Couloir – the Norton-Messner route, August 20, 1980, Reinhold Messner – solo.
Material prepared by: ALP Project
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