The classic route (category 1B) to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) presents no particular technical difficulties. The glacier is quite steep, the danger of a deep fall is virtually eliminated, and the rock tower itself is well equipped with crampons and bolts. The climb is ideal for beginner climbers or as a first independent ascent in the big mountains with climbing equipment.
Gran Paradiso (French: Grand Paradis) is the highest mountain in the Graian Alps, at 4,061 meters above sea level, and also the highest mountain located entirely within Italy.
Gran Paradiso is considered one of the most accessible four-thousanders in the Alps. The first ascent to the summit of Gran Paradiso took place on September 4, 1860, and was made by J. J. Cowell, W. Dundas, M. Payot, and J. Tairraz. Their route across the crevasse-free Gran Paradiso Glacier is now a classic climbing route, starting from the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II mountain hut. It’s noteworthy that most climbers don’t ascend the main summit, 4,061 meters high, but rather the neighboring peak, almost as high (4,058 meters), which is home to a statue of the Madonna.
However, it’s worth considering the significant vertical drop from the hut to the summit and the mountain’s significant altitude – 4,061 meters. Good physical fitness is essential for a successful and safe ascent. Appropriate footwear and mountaineering equipment are also necessary, as weather conditions can quickly deteriorate at altitudes above 3,500 m.
Routes to the summit of Gran Paradiso:
Equipment list:
- 30 m rope
- 2-3 quickdraws with carabiners (needed at the rock tower)
- 2 ice screws (may be useful in front of the summit tower – bergschrund – at the end of the season)
- Crampons
- Classic ice axe
- Harness and belay with carabiner
Description of the classic ascent route, 1B category on the Grand Paradiso:
From the hut Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II move along the trail (in places on large(of scree) towards the western ridge, the rocky outcrops of which are located directly above the hut. Round the beginning of the ridge on the left to reach the lower part of the Gran Paradiso glacier. Then go up the gorge formed by the northwestern and western ridges to the Sheep’s Foreheads, where a steep climb (the first takeoff) begins across the snowfield (ice in places). It’s worth putting on crampons here.
R0-R1: From the Sheep’s Foreheads, move up to the right. Leave the rocky outcrops of the western ridge on the right. Reach a flattening area. Before the second takeoff, there will be a small ridge of small rocky islands. After overcoming them, move straight up the snow-ice slope at 25-30°. After 300 meters, there is a slight flattening, and the summit of Monchorve is visible on the right. Climb to a large ravine beyond Monchorve (3875 m). Then begins a long climb up the slope of the southeast ridge. Climb the 20-30° snow slope to the pre-summit cliffs.
R1-R2: From the big The cliffs (gendarme) with memorial plaques are traversed left for 50 meters. From here, the Madonna statue is visible. Go around the cliffs to the right, traversing along the wall. Three fixed bolts are available for belay. Alternatively, you can set up your own belay points (the terrain allows). The summit platform can accommodate 6-8 people. The statue’s metal pedestal has special spots for attaching handrails and setting up belay. The highest point of Gran Paradiso (4,061 m) is located 50 meters further after the gap in the northwest ridge, but the summit of the Madonna statue (4,056 m) is traditionally considered the final point of the route.
Descent along the ascent route takes 1–1.5 hours.
Photo from the ascent route:
Photos from the ascent route:Vladimir Belousov, Alexander Yurkin
Material prepared by: alp.org.ua