Pobeda Peak (7439 m) is the northernmost seven-thousander in the world, the highest point of the Tien Shan and Kyrgyzstan. Pobeda Peak is one of the five seven-thousanders in the CIS, successful expeditions to which give the right to receive the honorary title of “Snow Leopard”. Many peaks adjacent to Pobeda Peak are still unconquered and await their pioneers.
Pobeda Peak Base Camp (4000 m) is located on the South Inylchek Glacier in the heart of the Northern Tien Shan. Its convenient location allows you to enjoy magnificent panoramas of Khan-Tengri Peak and Pobeda Peak.
Pobeda Peak is known for its harsh, unpredictable nature and high difficulty for climbing. The routes for climbing Pobeda Peak are classified as some of the most difficult in mountaineering (5-6 category). There are several reasons for this: climate, northern location, sudden gusts of wind, low temperatures, altitude, steep slopes, hurricanes… The more difficult and dangerous the peak, the more prestigious the ascent to it – many professional climbers challenge Pobeda Peak. The latest equipment, detailed maps, experienced guides – all this reduces the risk of climbing Pobeda Peak, but does not reduce the test of strength and endurance of the climber himself.
From the editors: the film was shot well, beautiful footage, a detailed description of the route, but there are safety violations that should not be repeated by novice climbers, however, as well as experienced ones. One of which is belaying on a steep traverse with ice axes that are not fastened with a self-belay to the harness. Also, questions arise as to why the group would tie themselves together with a rope on a steep snow slope if the only “insurance” is trekking poles.
Otherwise, the film is not bad, shot with a drone, which has never been done before on routes of such a high difficulty category. In general, we recommend watching it.
1956 – the first ascent of Pobeda Peak was made along the northern ridge from the Zvezdochka glacier by a group led by the Soviet climber V. M. Abalakov.
Material prepared by: alp.org.ua