Mistakes observed on descents from the mountain.
1) The last person to leave the station does not tie a “grabbing” knot. This is a gross mistake. The reasons for this action are that it is worse to go down a double with a gripping knot, that I control the descent well and do not need a “grabbing” knot.
This is not a reason to violate safety rules. The grip is needed not only to stop an uncontrolled descent, but also to save you if the rope is cut or the upper station is torn out.
And most importantly, if you want to violate safety rules, go solo and do not create problems for the team.
2) If you are descending on a double rope on an eight, you need to watch and adjust the ropes by hand (if necessary) so that they do not twist.
3) The upper belay should be exactly that, belay, do not just give out the rope. Often they even give out the rope faster than you yourself descend. This leads to the formation of loops that cling to the terrain and interfere in every way. The belay must be taut.
4) You often see how the first one (the one going down) collects the rope in his hands and throws it down onto the terrain. Then he “rides” down and constantly straightens it along the way, collects it from the slopes, throws it again, it gets tangled in the terrain, etc., etc. And if there is a strong wind, the situation becomes more complicated.
We recommend that you collect the rope into a coil before descending and hang it on the side of the system, securing it, for example, with a carabiner. And when descending, you will give yourself the rope from this coil. Very convenient.
5) And another controversial issue: many are fundamentally against using a carabiner to connect two ropes. It is recommended to use a simple guide with ends about 60 cm long, if possible. In extreme cases, a grapevine knot.
Source: alp.org.ua