Beshbarmag is a rock massif located 80 km northwest of Baku, 10 km before the city of Siyazan, not far from the coast of the Caspian Sea. The height of the peak is 500 meters above sea level. The proximity to the Caspian is conditional, it is quite difficult to reach the shore on foot or even by car.
Today, this is the largest rock climbing area in Azerbaijan. There are 31 routes for bottom belay and one sport multi-pitch.
Azerb. name Beşbarmaq. From Turkic languages it is translated as “five fingers”, since the outlines of the mountain resemble five fingers of a hand. The place has religious significance and the status of a reserve. On the ridge of the cliff there is a hut and a prayer room for pilgrims, accessible by a steep staircase. The descent from the summit passes through this hut.
Only a very experienced climber can climb from the hut to the top without safety equipment. For a trained person, the first 35 meters of the cliff will seem relatively easy, but going down will be harder and more dangerous. But the last 8 meters, the summit tower, is a serious obstacle, a steep cliff. Going around the tower counterclockwise goes along destroyed cliffs overgrown with slippery lichen, and therefore is even more dangerous than storming the tower head-on. Do not take risks, use equipment or the services of experienced mountaineering guides.
History
The cliff was used for training and competitions back in the Soviet period. There are several trad multi-pitches (alpine routes), 80 meters and higher in length, leading to the summit, but their pioneers and the year of creation are unknown. It was also impossible to find descriptions.
The first sports tracks in 2011-2013 were made by St. Petersburg residents Alexey Tselishchev and Sergey Shemulinkin, invited to Azerbaijan by Israfil Ashurly, who headed the national federation from 2010 to 2015. These tracks are not on the main wall of the massif, but on large rocky debris located south of the mountain itself and below the parking lot, in the direction of the sea. The potential of these stones has not yet been exhausted, there is room for new tracks.
Of the routes made then, at least half are sevens, there are not enough simple tracks. Some of the routes are full of dugouts.
The photo below shows the main massif and a group of blocks-rocks-stones with tracks that have separated from it. A little to the left and above the center of the frame, you can see a mosque and a parking lot (photo Andre Jabali):
The first multi-pitch
After a long break, in 2022 Israfil resumed the development of this promising area, this time inviting me. Together with Rinat Ragimkhanov, we began by creating the first sports multi-pitch in the history of Azerbaijan. The 110-meter route was called “Tiger for Breakfast”.
There are five sections, the maximum difficulty is 6b (the first rope), then it gets easier. The longest rope is 30 meters, the rest are shorter. 13 quickdraws will be enough, plus material to block the hooks at the stations. The route is also in Allclimb.
I climb with top belay the key place of the whole route, on the first rope:
A rich relief with large nests, depressions and troughs is visible, characteristic of the entire route.
Descent
You can descend along the ascent path, but it is much easier and faster to make the descent towards the hut.
View from the summit to the next one,the second descent station, in the direction of the hut:
The second station, after the descent from which, to the hut there will be 50 meters left to walk:
Careful, there is a 60-meter rope missing to the ground! This is what the diagram drawn on the stone says.
Or you will have to climb down the lower 5 meters, which is very dangerous if the rocks are wet, or use the third, intermediate station, 10 meters above the ground.
«Caspian Monster»
Rinat and I also made what I think is a landmark route for Azerbaijan, «Caspian Monster», in the Lion’s Head sector. I hope the route will become a calling card of the area, at least due to the extremely photogenic angles.
From this side, the shape of the upper part of the rock resembles a lion’s head or a human head:
The route goes along the right side of the cliff, along a strongly overhanging edge. Approximate category 8a+/8b.
We called it a monster because the cliff resembles a sloth’s face, and if you look at the top and bottom of the cliff at the same time, you get a huge head with a wide open mouth – the face of a turtle, or Pacman. From other angles you can see a dolphin or an elephant.
In my experience, this turned out to be the most labor-intensive route per 1 meter of height. Despite the fact that this is my 369th route. A real monster, many-sided.
The overhang is impressive (photo Andre Jabali):
View of the edge from below:
Potential for new routes
There is room for 4-6 more similar long routes along the rocks near the multi-pitch of the highest quality.
Between the stairs leading to the hut and the multi-pitch there is space for 40 interesting sports tracks. Unfortunately for climbers, it is under this promising place that excavations of an ancient fortress are taking place, the edge of the excavations is just a couple of meters from the rock. This can complicate the development of the sector.
On the western, flat side of the mountain there are places for new trad multi-pitches about 150 meters long. The southern side is the highest, about 200 meters, but is heavily destroyed. Perhaps because it faces the sea.
How to get there?
Parking coordinates near the mountain: 40.955663, 49.232204
By taxi:
You can get to the city of Siyazan by public transport, and take a taxi from there. The last kilometers before the mountain are a dirt road. After heavy rains, the road can be difficult for low cars. When this happens, there are usually Nivas below, which will take you to the mountain in taxi mode. Therefore, it is better to negotiate two prices with taxi drivers from Siyazan – if they take you to the start of the dirt road, and if they take you to the very top.
The very top is a small mosque located at the same height as the base of the cliff, as well as toilets and a place where you can take ablutions located nearby.Below there is another group of buildings, including the lower mosque, from which you need to climb 100 meters to the upper mosque. The coordinates above are the upper, necessary parking lot. Agree to go to the upper mosque, otherwise some taxi drivers may take you lower and ask for an additional fee for the last couple of kilometers.
On foot:
You can get to the large “pit stop” on the highway, near the Beşbarmaq Piri mosque. Pit stop coordinates: 40.972327, 49.243033
From here, move in the direction of Beşbarmag about 2 km, the mountain is clearly visible. Along the way there will be a small village of Galashikhy. It’s about an hour’s walk to the rocks with routes, a decent climb.
You can try to take a taxi at the pit stop, it might be cheaper. But in Siyazan it’s easier to find a car, taxis are concentrated near the bus station.
Where to stay?
- In hotels in the city of Siyazan and go to the rock every day by car or taxi. For example, while working on the routes we lived in the “Siyazan Hotel”.
- In tents under the climbing sectors. There is a leveled area under the “Narsharab” sector and under another large stone further down the slope. The nearest source of water, a well, is located near the lower mosque. Near the upper mosque, water is brought in. It is not a fact that it will be legal to stand in a tent in the reserve, the situation could have changed in 2020.
- We have not studied the possibilities of the private sector, but it is unlikely that you will find something decent closer to Siyazan.
Season and sun-shadow
It is comfortable to climb from mid-March to June, then from mid-September to December. It is very hot in summer, but since the routes are on different sides of the rocks, you can always find shade.
The temperature regime by month is quite reminiscent of Crimea, but autumn 2022 was definitely colder than in Crimea.
Beware of snakes!
There are quite a lot of snakes in the Beshbarmag area. Their period of greatest activity is June, July and August.
The most common is the copperhead (slowworm) – a non-venomous legless lizard. There may be other species, but the most important thing to know is that there is a GROOVE.
Gyurza is the largest representative of the viper family in the fauna of the former USSR. The body length together with the tail can reach almost 2 meters, weight up to 3 kg. The head is very large and wide, with a sharp neck interception, the muzzle is round.
This is one of the most dangerous snakes for pets and humans. In a critical situation, it is capable of throwing itself the length of its body towards the enemy, the throw time is on average 0.08 seconds (faster than a cobra), while the human reaction time is 0.1-0.2 seconds, so people are practically unable to react to the throw of this snake. It gives almost no warning of its intention to attack.
The venom of the gyurza is second only to the venom of cobras, taipans and black mambas in toxicity. Despite the invention of a vaccine against its venom, some doctors simply do not have time to administer it to the victim and 20% of all those bitten die. Getting into the blood, the venom destroys red blood cells, causes blood clotting, and numerous internal hemorrhages. Severe swelling occurs in the area of the bite, blockage of blood vessels. All this is accompanied by severe pain, dizziness, and vomiting. If the antidote is not administered in time, the person will die in 2-3 hours. Even newly hatched gyurza children, snakelets, are poisonous and active.
An antidote is needed after such a horror story: according to local climbers, they have never heard of a fatal outcome after a gyurza attack on a person in this area, although a lot of pilgrims climb to the hut and some people also walk around the area. They have not even heard of an attack, but such could have taken place, because gyurzas are encountered periodically.
How not to be bitten on Beshbarmagh if you are here during the snake season?
- When walking along the trail, carefully look under your feet and a little to the sides, 1-2 meters to the right and left of the trail. It is better not to run, but to walk smoothly and look around.
- Close your tent, backpack, do not throw personal belongings around,better put them in a backpack – small children of the gyurza, the little bastards, can crawl in there.
- Before putting on shoes, and climbers often change from climbing shoes and back – shake out their possible contents.
What to do if you are bitten by a gyurza?
Answer from a toxicologist from Baku:
«…Nevertheless, I urge you not to panic when bitten. Mostly, bites occur on the extremities – upper or lower. The most life-threatening bites are in the head and neck area, because there are vessels connected to the brain. In this case, there is a rapidly progressing form of poisoning.
A victim of a blunt-nosed viper has two hours to go to the nearest medical center or call an ambulance. All ambulance stations in Baku and the regions of the republic have free anti-snakebite serums available. They can only be administered under the supervision of a doctor. If complications occur, patients contact the poison control center.
Access and administrative barriers when visiting Beshbarmag
In 2020, this territory was declared the Beshbarmag Mountain State Historical, Cultural and Natural Reserve. A document has been published on the website of the Reserve Management Center of the State Tourism Agency, which can be obtained near the upper mosque, or printed out, signed and handed over to a reserve employee or a police officer on the spot. These people live in the upper mosque every day from about 9 am to 5 pm. If they are not there, just go climb. It is better to have this paper with you and show it if asked. There is no large flow of climbers, the mountain became a reserve recently, so the procedure has not acquired cast-iron traditions and exists so-so.
Entrance to the reserve is free, but there are rumors that they want to make it paid.
The document has the meaning of “I am to blame for everything that happens” and is made in two languages - Azerbaijani and English.
What happens if you don’t fill out the paper?
If you came from below and didn’t flash near the mosque, then it’s unlikely that anyone will come down to the lower sectors to you. You don’t have to waste time and go up.
If you came to the parking lot, you may be noticed with your equipment and asked to fill out the paper (they give it to you on the spot).
Climbing is sometimes prohibited, sometimes allowed, and sometimes they want to prohibit it again. Check the current information on access to the rock with the mountaineering federation or with active climbers who are aware of the situation. Rinat Ragimkhanov will definitely be in the know, his contacts will be below.
What will happen next is unknown. The authorities have big plans for this area, it is not clear how realistic they are, but after seeing the resistance to the creation of new routes, they look like “porridge”:
«N noted that the territory of Mount Beshbarmag is one of the rare unique territories in the world for ornithological tourism: «Every year, millions of migratory birds fly through this territory to the south. Therefore, it is planned to develop ornithological tourism here. In addition, Mount Beshbarmag and the adjacent territory are considered a sanctuary, and hundreds of thousands of people coming to Azerbaijan from Turkey, Iran, the Middle East and other Muslim countries visit them. Therefore, it is also planned to develop the potential of religious tourism, rock climbing, equestrian sports and other areas. The income received will be used to maintain and improve the work of this tourist site. First of all, it will be reconstructed with funds allocated from the budget and then transferred for use. After creating conditions for tourism development, tourism products will be sold at this site, the main tourist routes will be laid out, and tourism industry specialists will be involved.”
Prospects of the district
This place could once again become the rock-climbing heart of Azerbaijan, the fame of which will spread far beyondcountries. An area with dozens of multi-pitches and hundreds of single-rope climbing routes. With the ability to climb, including with traditional belay.
This will become possible if the mountaineering federation finds common ground with the authorities and conveys the importance of such development to decision makers. The main thing is to legally secure the opportunity to work on rocks, make new routes and repair old ones – in the reserve regulations and other documents. Decision makers may change, but free access to the natural treasure should remain for all people, including climbers.
Contacts
For up-to-date information, please contact:
Azerbaijan Mountaineering Federation (FAA)
Rinat Ragimkhanov +994 70 919 07 19 (WhatsApp, Telegram)
Author’s tours, mountain trekking, guide services (climbing, rock climbing, ice climbing)
Author: Sergey Sumberg (Nefedov)
Source: alp.org.ua