In our large survey in issue 12/1967, we were primarily interested in the question of “the best thing in a mountain hut”. From the very beginning, it was clear to us that the answers to this question would be extremely limited. But no one expected that the best huts would be named out of the total number of huts named (550).
How exceptional the judgments about huts can be, can be confirmed by the following quote: “The best hut is “Chievra” (one shot at Albert Morf!)” – “The most unfriendly hut is “Chievra” – “90% of the huts I know are OK!” – “I have not met a single one yet!” – “Most of those located above 2500m.”
Not only was the number of named huts large, but the territorial dispersion is also striking: “Falkenhütte” in Karwendel, then “Kondratova Hütte” in the High Tatras (a frequently mentioned hut for the Alpine representatives – 4 votes), then “Javast Hütte” in Jotunheim. It is also interesting that three votes from the reader of ALPINIZM were given to the hut “Pogačnik Hütte” in the Julian Alps. Below, in the table, we provide a short list of all the shelters that received more than five votes:
1.- Lindauer Hütte (Rätikon) – 26
2.- Oberreintalhütte (Wetterstein) – 21
3.- Strippsenjochhaus (Wilder Kaiser) – 15
4.- Jamtalhütte (Silvretta) – 13
5.- Drei Zinnen Hütte (Sextner Dolomiter) – 12
- – Gaudeamushütte (Wilder Kaiser) – 11
- a – Monte Rosa Hutte (Wallis) – 10
- b – Tissihütte (Civetta) – 10
- – Brentaihütte (Brentagruppe) – 9
- a – Domhütte (Wallis) – 8
- b – Ravensburger Hütte (Lechtal Alps) – 8
- c – Heinrich-Schwager-Haus (Hohe Tauern) – 8
10.a.- Kaunergrathütte (Ötztal Alps) – 7
10.b. – Neue Koatz Hütte (Bernina) – 7
10.v. – Tanuheimer Hütte (Allaur Alps) – 7
11.a – Rifugio 7ºAlpini (Sciaragruppe) – 6
11.b. – Falkenhütte (Karwendel) – 6
11.v. – Friedrichshafener Hütte (Verwal) – 6
11.g. – Pradidalhütte (Palagruppe) -6
11.d. – Samoarchütte (Ötztal Alps) – 6
11.e. – Waltenberger Haus (Allgau Alps) – 6
11.f. – Fazoller Hütte (Civetta) – 6
Source: Alpinism magazine, No. 1, Munich, January 1971
Mountain huts
New home of the Austrian Alpine Union on the Radstädter Tauern
Recently, the Radstädter Tauern hosted Official opening of the Wismeyer house, built by the Edelweiss section of the Austrian Alpine Club next to the hut that is being reconstructed at the same time. The house has 97 beds, including all the necessary utility, guest and auxiliary rooms for year-round use. Spent: 4 million Austrian shillings.
New support camp on the Hohe Tauern
The Tauern house complex in Matrei has recently been expanded by the “Grusee hut” of the Matrei section in East Tyrol of the Austrian Alpine Standard, comparatively low in the 1940s from the mountain station of the ski lift near the Venedigerblick. The new hut has 16 sleeping places, but does not imply farming in it.
New bivouac hut on the Hohe Tauern
A new bivouac hut was erected on the narrow Feldsee saddle (2712 m) in the Goldberg group of the Hohe Tauern of the Duisburg section of the German Alpine Mix. This hut, built according to the plans of Leo Spannraft, the builder of a similar bivouac hut in the Glockner Gorge, by
In the context of our most recent survey, issue 12/1967, we, before everyone else, were interested in the question of “being in the mountains itself is better”. From the very beginning it was clear to us that the answers to these questions would be extremely limited. No one expected that out of the total number of named candidates (550), the best would be named right away.
What kind of opinions can be expressed about the candidates, can be stated in the following quote: “The best candidate is Chiyevra (one hit towards Albert Morfa!)” – “The most unfavorable candidate is Chiyevra” – “90% of the candidates I know are OK!” – “I still haven’t seen a single one!” – «Most of them go higher than 2500 m».
Not only was the number of named arrivals greater, but also the territorial dispersion is noticeable: «Falkenkhyutte» in Karvendel, then «Kondratova-Khyutte» in the High Tatras (often mentioned as arrivals for Alp representatives – 4 votes), then «Yavast-Khyutte» in Yotunkhayme. It is also interesting that three voices of the readers of AL’PINIZMA were given the title “Pogachnik-khyutte” in Yuliyskikh Al’pakh. Below, in the tab, we provide a short list of all the awards that received more votes:
1.- Lindauer Khyutte (Retikon) – 26
2.- Oberrayntal’khyutte (Vettershtayn) – 21
3.- Shtripsen’okhkhaus (Vil’der Kayzer) – 15
4.- Yamtal’khyutte (Zil’vretta) – 13
5.- Dray-Tsinnen-Khyutte (Zekstner Dolomiter) – 12
- – Gaudeamuskhyutte (Vil’der Kayzer) – 11
- a – Monte-Roza-Khyutte (Vallis) – 10
- b – Tissikhyutte (Chivetta) – 10
- – Brentaykhyutte (Brentagruppe) – 9
- a – Domkhyutte (Vallis) – 8
- b – Ravensburger Khyutte (Lekhtal’skiye Al’py) – 8
- s – Khaynrikh-Shvager-Khaus (Khokhe Tauern) – 8
10.a.- Kaunergratkhyutte (Etstal’skiye Al’py) – 7
10.b.- Noyye-Koats-Khyutte (Bernina) – 7
10.v.- Tanukhaymer Khyutte (Al’gaurskiye Al’py) – 7
11.a – Rifudzhio7ºAl’pini (Shiaragruppe) – 6
11.b.- Fal’kenkhyutte (Karvendel’) – 6
11.v.- Fridrikhskhafener Khyutte (Ferval’) – 6
11.g.- Pradidalikhyutte (Palagruppe) – 6
11.d.- Samoarkhyutte (Etstal’skiye Al’py) – 6
11.ye.- Val’tenberger-Khaus (Al’gaurskiye Al’py) – 6
11.zh.- Fatsoller-Khyutte (Chivetta) – 6
Source: journal “Al’pinizm” №1, Myunkhen, January 1971.
Mountain resorts
New house of the Austrian Alpine Union on Radshtedter-Tauern
Recently, the official opening of the Vismeyera building, built by the Edelweiss sect of the Austrian Alpine Club, was located on the Radshtedter Tauern, along with a simultaneously reconstructed kitchen. The building will accommodate 97 bedrooms, including all the necessary household, guest and subsidiary premises for general use. Spent: 4 million Austrian shillings.
New building Camp on the High Tauerne
House complexes on the High Tauerne in Matrayye have recently become popular with the “low-altitude Gryuzeye” section of the “Matray” in the Eastern Tyrolean mountain range, comparable to the low 40s mountain range with the Venedigerblik. The new cottage has 16 sleeping places, but does not imply running a household in it.
New cottage-bivouac on the High Mountain
On the narrow Feldsee saddle (2712 m) in the Goldberg High Tauern group of the “Duysburg” section of the German Alpine community a new bivy hut has been built. This hut, built according to the designs of Leo Shpannraft, is also a bivy hut in the Glokner ridge, but is still not equipped with sleeping places, and at the moment it is only an emergency rescue for climbers in case of sudden changes in the weather on the way to the Hohe Tauern between the Hagen and Duisburg huts. For this purpose, an open “Doctor’s Hut” was located in the Feldsee saddle for 40 years Weissgerbera”, which, however, due to its dilapidation, could hardly be called an emergency observation post.
Reconstruction of the Westfalenhaus
The Westfalenhaus of the Münster section of the German Alpine Union, which can be reached from the Sellrain valley in Stubai, has been extensively reconstructed. The hut now has its own power and water supply systems, new sanitary facilities with showers and a new winter quarters.
Westfalenhaus
Silvretta Group/Madeleine’s House
Madeleine’s House of the Wiesbaden section of the German Alpine Union is reported to have been closed this winter.
New Reutlingen Hut in Verwall
The new Reutlingen Hut was built by the Reutlingen Section of the German Alpine Union in a wild area at an altitude of 2400 m in the Verwall Group. This very nice and practically equipped hut has a usable area of 35 m2, which, when normally arranged, can accommodate more than 20 mattresses. It is also equipped with a three-burner gas (propane) stove with a built-in heating system and all necessary kitchen equipment (plates, cups, glasses, etc.). The hut was built using the technology of a log house (log hut) and was opened by Associate Professor Professor Dr. Max Seckler from Tübingen. Thus, in the wonderful manifestations of rock climbing among the summit of Pflunspitzen, a climbing support camp has finally appeared again, and ascents to the unusually beautiful granite peaks will no longer be forgotten. The hut (entrance with an Alpine Club key) can be reached from Klästerle in Arlberg in 3.5 hours.
Reutlingen Hut
New Fragant Hut of the Alpine Junction
Since the beginning of June 1970, the new Fragant Hut has been available to all visitors to the Großfragant mountain region. The house is equipped with running water and central heating and can be reached from Innerfragant (in the Möll Valley – between Obervellach and Winklern/Kärnten) in 1.5 to 2 hours. For transporting luggage, you can use the cargo cable car.
«Austria» (error correction)
In the magazine «ALPINISM» 7/70 (p. 49) we reported «82,000 overnight stays» in the huts of the «Austria» section of the Austrian Alpine Union (Vienna). In fact, the number of overnight visitors was mostly 42,000, the remaining 40,000 were daytime visitors.
Source: Alpinism magazine, No. 3, Munich, March 1971
Huts: Today and Tomorrow
An old song: huts were created five or more fundamental years ago for male alpine climbers, since none of them are equipped with sleeping places, and at present this is an extreme salvation for climbers in sudden weather changes on the way to the High Tauer between Khizhan and Duisburg. With this goal in the saddle, Feldzey spent 40 years in prison, opening the “hospital of Dr. Vasgerbera”, which, however, due to its vet’s failure, could only be called an emergency shelter.
Reconstruction of the Vestfalen house
The house of the Vestfalen section “Myunster” of the German Alpine Union, which can be taken from the Zel’rayn valley in Shtubai, has been completely reconstructed. Now the house has its own electricity and water supply systems, new sanitary installations with showers and new winter buildings.
Dom Vestfalen
Gruppa Sil’vretta/Dom Madlen
Dom Madlen divided the “Visbaden” of the German Alpine Union into sectarian communities closed this winter.
Novaya khizhina Roytlingen v Fervalle
Novaya khizhina Roytlingen postroyena sektsiyey “Roytlingen” German alpine union on a wild territory with a height of 2400 m in the Ferval group. Very nice and practically equipped kitchen has a useful area – 35 m2, on which in normal layout there are more than 20 mattresses. It is also equipped with a three-compartment gas (propane) stove with a built-in heating system and all necessary kitchen equipment (plates, cups, glasses, etc.). The village has implemented the technology of building a log house (log hut) and it was opened by assistant professor Dr. Maks Zekler from Tyumen. Thus, in the wonderful manifestations of rock climbing among the top of the Pflugstein pits, a new climbing support camp has finally appeared, and the ascents to the incredibly beautiful granite peaks will no longer go into oblivion. Do khizhiny (entering with the local club of the Alpine club) you can get from Klesterle to Arlberg in 3.5 hours.
Khizhina Roytlingen
New house in the mountains of Fragant Alpine Union
Since the beginning of June 1970, a new house in the mountains of Fragant has been moving to the mountains and all the protagonists of the Gross Fragant mountain region. The house is equipped with running water and central heating, which can be obtained from the Inner Frigate (in the Mell valley – between Oberfellakhom and Vinklern/Kernten) in 1.5-2 hours. For the transportation of luggage, you can use the freight cable car.
«Austria» (correcting errors)
In the journal «AL’PINIZM» 7/70 (p. 49) I reported «82,000 incidents» in the «Austria» section of the Austrian Mountain Union (Vienna). In fact, the number of those transported amounted to an impressive 42,000, the remaining 40,000 were daily payments.
Source: magazine “Al’pinizm” №3, Myanmar, March 1971.
Khizhiny: segodnya i zavtra
Old song: khizhiny sozdany pyat’ ili boleye fundamental’nykh let nazad dlya muzhchin-al’piyskikh so
uzov. Today, any oncoming and transverse stop will be in them. Mass tourism threatens to poison them. Should they be sold? Or burned? Albert Bitterling ponders this problem. In addition, we investigated whether the so-called hut libraries really contain nothing of value other than a warehouse of decaying waste paper.
Albert Bitterling
Huts: Present and Future
The German Alpine Union has 238 mountain huts in the Eastern Alps. The ten most frequented huts provide 2,320 beds for about 80,000 weary mountain travelers every year. The ten most frequented huts of the Swiss Alpine Club provide 815 beds for about 42,000 mountaineers every year. For a long time now, the huts have been a form of recreation for tourists who do not belong to any Alpine association and are perceived as an independent body. However, the mountaineering associations are increasingly at a loss. The German Alpine Union (DAV) has approached Bonn in the hope of securing support from the Federation. But in Bonn, a law has been in force since January 1, 1970, according to which the Federation is only responsible for “the implementation of financing obligations within the framework of stimulating the development of gymnastic and durable structures that are of lesser service to high-performance sports.” Albert Bitterling (house on Watzmann) in his area of events is trying to use possible levers in the health sector, which must be created first without Bonn.
Anyone who short-sightedly guards his belongings has already lost touch with reality. This applies to all areas of economic life, including such inconspicuous objects as mountain hotels and huts of alpine associations.
The properties, characteristics and purpose of the huts correspond to the relevant requirements for them. Revolutionary changes are not required here. Evolutionary processes, reforming the structure in accordance with modern conditions, should mainly be carried out where until now romantic principles have been condescendingly tolerated, treated with caution. But today they have outlived themselves in their practical manifestations so much that they cause an increase in harsh criticism of these structures.
The era of the pristine comfort of the hut is a thing of the past: the grandfather’s mountaineering hut is dead! Large and most easily accessible huts are developing in the conditions of mass tourism, more and more acquiring status hotels in the mountains, where the guest, an ordinary tourist or a convinced climber, seeks a certain amount of comfort. One can ignore the changed view and increased demands of even the most conservative mountain friends. The least one can make a mistake with the assertion that deliberate asceticism is a sign of alpine support bases. This can still be allowed in small, remote and, above all, not equipped with any amenities, huts. But such a situation at sites with economic development can no longer be considered excusable and in line with the spirit of the times. It was in mountaineering circles that claims were made about territories that can no longer exist in modern requirements due to the obsolescence of their structures and production and technical base. Based on the experience and personal experience of the criticizing party, these claims are often justified. And if they are constructive, they should lead to a solution to the problem. But nothing can be achieved by advertising success alone, because the owners and proprietors of these houses have known about the traditions and their foundations for a long time.
For a long time now, the huts have become a manifestation of recreation for tourists who do not belong to any independent Alpine union and are perceived as a stable body.Photo: Robert Lebl
There is no doubt about the method of mastering self-flagellation. We are not talking about the duration of the period during which guests will be bombarded again and again with assurances and lamentations that the conditions have become such due to a lack of staff, due to the fact that specialists for work at home and in the kitchen, due to the deplorable state in which the financial and technical indicators are. Moreover, even the proposed eeconomic comfort up here should not be perceived as almost an extremely high achievement in such operating conditions, etc. All this may be true, but the guest does not care one bit.
Mountain hotels, adhering to alpine distinctions, have a certain degree of special status, because at their level they have, for the most part, no competition. But this is no excuse for continuing carelessly in a slipshod manner. At the end of the finale, the huts open onto the street.
yuzov. Today, the most popular and popular stops will be in them. Mass tourism threatens to poison us. Do they need to be sold? Or burned? Albert Bitterling ponders this problem. Besides, I have studied the question of whether there is any niche in so-called libraries other than a storehouse of waste paper.
Albert Bitterling
Khizhiny: present and future
The German Alpine Union has 238 mountain peaks in the Eastern Alpine region. In 2,320 sleeping places there are the most frequently visited ski resorts annually, about 80,000 mountain skiers. In 815 places in the most frequently visited ski resorts of the Shveytsarsky Alpine Club, each year about 42,000 mountain skiers can relax. For a long time now, lodges have begun to offer vacations for tourists who do not join any alpine club and are used as a self-sufficient organization. However, the nationalist movement for “unification” is increasingly falling into disarray. The German Alpine Union (DAV) came to Bonn in the hope of receiving support from the Federation. However, on January 1, 1970, a law was passed in Bonn, according to which the obligations of the Federation shall be implemented “only the implementation of obligations on financing within the framework of stimulating the development of gymnastics and other sports facilities, which at least at the lower level are intended to serve in high-achieving sports.” Albert Bitterling (House on Vatsmanne) in his sphere of events he takes advantage of the possible resources in the sphere of health care, which we can create for the beginning without Bonn’s participation.
He who has not recently saved his treasure has already lost his potential connection with reality. This applies to all spheres of private life, including a number of such inconsequential objects as mountain hotels and alpine ski resorts.
Home, The characteristic features and purposes of these principles correspond to their corresponding requirements. No proven revolutionary changes are required here. Evolutionary processes, reforming the structure in accordance with modern conditions, should, in the main, be carried out where, up to this point, romantic ideas have been patiently received and carefully dealt with. But today they have achieved so much in their practical actions that they are causing increasing harsh criticism of these structures.
The era of the original dwelling has remained in the past: the ancient mountain dwelling is dead! The largest and most lightweight women are developing in the sphere of mass tourism, and more and more status hotels are acquiring in the mountains, where the guest, the ordinary tourist or the humble mountaineer, seeks a certain amount of comfort. It is possible to pass by the changed outlook and increased demands of even the most conservative mountain friends. In my opinion, it is possible to make a mistake in asserting that the extreme asceticism is manifested in the presence of certain oppressive bases. This can be done in small, remote and, before everything, unsupported by any kind of facilities, khizhins. No such situation with the projects of the state-owned enterprises can no longer be considered as justifiable and responsible for the current situation. It is precisely in these circles that claims were made on the basis of territories that can no longer be met in modern terms due to the construction of their buildings and the production and technical base. Based on experience and personal experience of the critical sector, these claims often appear justified. And yes, they constructive, to have access to solutions to the problem. But the niche does not achieve its advertising goals alone, because the traditions and principles of the owners and owners of these houses have become known since yesterday.
For a long time now, the houses have been providing vacations for tourists that do not belong to any private association and are perceived as a sustainable organization.Photo: Robert Lebl’
There is no doubt about it sposoband the concept of self-defeat. It is not about the length of the term, during which time the guests will again and again receive assurances with complaints that the conditions have become such due to the lack of personal, due to the fact that specialists in running the house and kitchen, due to the poor state in which financial and technical indicators are operating. Moreover, even the economic comfort offered here should not be taken into account as almost exclusively high profits in such conditions of operation, etc. All this may be true, but it does not matter.
High-end hotels, proudly offering various types of services, have a certain degree of special benefit, so that at their own level they do not compete with each other. But this does not mean that the work will continue without fail. In the end, the huts will go out onto the street. The old representatives of the era of King Ludwig are today irreverently called barns and become objects of jokes when they burn down in time. In the case of mountain huts, one thing must not be forgotten: they were built by means of a great revolution and sacrificed by idealistic people as shelters in the deserted terrain of the presidency for all mankind. There was no mercantile intent in this, and even today such a goal is not pursued at external sites. But with the mass flow of people into the mountains and the accompanying mechanization, some change. What takes time must be gradually implemented, even when it comes to old mountaineering shelters. First of all, it is necessary to carry out ongoing improvements to improve frequently visited houses. But the chairmen are not the functionaries, the voluntary members of the union, and the Alpine unions are not hotel and restaurant enterprises, but a non-profit organization.
The decision to comply with modern trends even in the era of industrialization and behavior taking into account the unification will cost considerable changes. I recall the positions of the Munich section of the German Alpine Union, which maintained its previous commitment to the charter by giving up its ducal lands at the very moment when their economic use promised to become profitable, but the original purpose of the Alpine support base changed due to the construction of the cable car. That was 20 years ago. There are also more recent examples, such as the sections of the German Alpine Union and the Nature Lovers’ Organization, which have become more modern.
The lack of personnel is the main reason for the production and economic shortcomings of the huts of the Alpine associations. Our photo shows a house on the Kaiser Saddle with the Fallesin and Zwölfer peaks.
House owners and hospital tenants to fork out cash to keep up with the times. Right: Berlin Ginhira near the Horn Glacier and the Horn peaks in Zillertal.
Extension of the Dresden Hut, reconstruction of the Göppingen Hut, renovation and approval of the presidential Alpine house of Heinrich Schweiger in the Wiesbachhorn and indiscriminate investment in the Allgäu Bank huts. Announcement that the Oberstaufen section is looking for partner sections with the above capabilities that can cooperate with the expected increase in tourist excitement in the winter due to the construction of a cable car to the Staufen housen, opening up far-reaching prospects.
“Conformity” is the main thesis of this study. It is especially important for those houses that have to take into account the growing number of visitors and the principle of work today, using long-standing methods. This entails making quick decisions about the progressive hotel industry. Suggestions on this issue can only be formulated in general terms due to the differences in local conditions. The basic elements, in my opinion, are: water supply, independent production of electricity, a cargo aerial tramway, a wide range of mechanized equipment, refrigeration units, rational reorganization of the kitchen and distribution, if possible, the installation of a self-service system, a snack system for food, amenities for staff (hotel room, utility room, TV reception, shower, separate dining area), guest rooms in the American style (away from the style of a construction canteen!), the most popular kitchen devices, bathrooms. Then even the strong points of the huts, which often precede oblivion and are not used in business, are prepared and show a positive effect on economic activity.
The poverty of the huts cannot be overcome by traditional, old-fashioned business management, exhausting scandals due to constantly recurring cases of shortage of technical equipment. In addition, due to a humble attitude and a misinterpretation of the concept of “tradition”, they still adhere to the usual approach, which is not bad in some way, but in fact causes complaints from visitors. This will not help us in the future, nor our partners, nor the Alpine Union, nor the guests of the Hut. Simplification of work occurs where it leads to consequences during the fourth reformatting of the enterprise; but it should not provide primitiveness and negligence.
We, as homeowners and renters, should look into our pockets if you do not want to be hopelessly out of touch. Now it’s time to work, thinking about tomorrow.
Waste paper warehouse or library?
The rain is pouring down: the weather is such that not a single dog, let alone a climber, wants to stick your nose outside the hut door. So you have to spend your time playing cards, telling stories about “better” times, and reading.
Reading enlightens, sets new alpine goals for our time, or makes more time fly by without strain. But sometimes it is tiring, for example, when, due to the emergence of some alternative, you study the news of the alpine unions in the period from 1900 to 1908. Often this is very basic and requires detective skills to create a page at the moment when the order is currently being edited. Unfortunately, such readings about the gins of the alpine unions are not rare, but the rule. A pile of some alpine union magazines (usually annual sets of the pre-war period), which were bequeathed by a section by a certain patron; Nearby are a few more or less greasy magazines and (if you’re lucky) 1-2 abandoned pocket-sized books – that’s the entire library in the hut. It’s unlikely that the reason for such an unfortunate state of the library is the poverty of individual sections, since, perhaps, every publishing house that has alpine magazines in its program could, with permission, send out free copies. As for the books, after a one-time purchase it would be possible to fill up a small “update and expansion volume” in which certainly no section could drown.
A good library in the Hut should include this selection:
– all important alpine magazines, such as:
Bulletin of the Alpine Union
Magazine “ALPINISM”
Magazine “Mountain Comrade” (Der Bergkamerad)
Magazine “Alpinist” (Der Bergsteiger).
The issues should be filed in the sensor for better security – they will not activate their function if they are available for private use by the owner of the apartment.
– specialized literature on the directions in which the hut is located. This includes not only all kinds of guides for climbers, tourists and skiers, as well as the most important cartographic material, but also such books as: Walter Flyg, “Bernina – the ceremonial hall of the Alps”; Fritz Schmitt, “The Book of the Wild Kaiser”; Helmut Schöner, “The Book of the Wild Kaiser”;and about Watzmann.”
– several Alpine standards emerged, for example, Karl Ciak, “Man and the Mountains”; Walter Flyg, “Avalanches”; Franz Niberl, “Rock Climbing”.
– a number of pocket books for every taste, for example, classical literature, fiction, detective novels, are well sorted by topic.
You don’t have to be the Pope of correspondence to make a good choice of reading material. All it takes is a little willpower. I hope that the administrators in the relevant sections will infect such a thought. So that useful libraries in huts will emerge from moldy wastepaper warehouses.
Source: alp.org.ua (Alpinism magazine, No. 5, Munich, May 1973 г.)