One of the iconic routes of the Mont Blanc massif and perhaps one of the longest routes to a summit below 4,000 metres.
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey via the South Ridge involves more than 45 pitches and around 1,100 metres of elevation gain.

There is plenty of easy climbing at the beginning. Higher up, the route becomes more serious: difficult sections alternate with traverses and rappels, followed by more climbing along the ridge.
The rock is solid and monolithic on the crux sections. Around a dozen pitches require climbing at approximately 5a–5c. But the difficulty here is not limited to the individual sections.

Aiguille Noire de Peuterey via the South Ridge

On a route like this, you need to be able to move quickly, read the terrain well and work efficiently as a team. A route-finding mistake or poor coordination between climbers at a belay station can easily result in lost time.
The Noire Ridge is an extremely long line where you truly feel the scale of the high mountains. And that is exactly what gives it the character of a true major alpine route.

Description and photos by: Maksim Foigel

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