The compact Beta Stick is designed for hanging the first hard-to-reach quickdraw

This unusual device, commonly known as a “stick,” officially called the Beta Stick, has become widely used in rock climbing and bouldering. The Beta Stick is often used to pre-clip a quickdraw into the first bolt on a difficult route. This is especially useful when it is not possible to reach it directly. Typically, the Beta Stick is used by beginner climbers on sport routes. As you can imagine, reaching the first bolt can often be very difficult—it may be located 5–7 meters above the ground—so for safety it is better to clip the rope into it in advance and climb the initial section on top rope, reducing the risk of a ground fall in case of a fall. Read below about these and other features of this versatile tool.

To begin with, think about how often you have encountered situations in bouldering where you needed to reach a high hold to clean it with a brush. This can be quite inconvenient and difficult. With the compact Beta Stick, however, this task becomes easy and manageable.

The device first appeared on the market in 2003. Since then, the Beta Stick has become popular in climbing, both outdoors and in indoor climbing gyms. A new version of the “stick” was released this year. Compared to previous models, it is more compact and lighter.

The three main functions of the Beta Stick:

1) Pre-clipping a quickdraw into a higher bolt on a difficult section of a route (or at the start);

2) Clipping the rope into the quickdraw carabiner;

3) Brushing hard-to-reach holds from the ground or another convenient position.

Illustrations of the Beta Stick functions:

All these functions have proven to be both convenient and durable in use. However, before using the device, it is advisable to check your carabiners to ensure their shape is compatible with the head of the stick.

The Beta Stick measures 70 cm when collapsed and extends up to 2.75 m when fully deployed. It consists of six sections. The final section near the tip is marked in red to indicate that it is the most fragile and should be used with extra care, especially when brushing holds. The stick is compact enough to fit easily into a small backpack.

Another significant improvement in the new Beta Stick model is a rubber handle and a rotating clip mechanism, which provide better grip and control when clipping and brushing, as well as greater flexibility when attaching the device to a harness.

Video guide on how to use the Beta Stick:

Source: ALP Project