Breithorn is a heavily glaciated mountain ridge with several summits, accessible from Klein Matterhorn via the Breithornpass col. Many novice mountaineers choose it as their first 4,000-metre peak. The massif consists of five summits forming a ridge, with the highest point in the west and a gradual decrease in height toward the east. The slopes are heavily glaciated.
When climbing with a mountain guide, an ascent of Breithorn usually takes less than four hours. The route starts from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car station (Klein Matterhorn) and involves approximately 415 m of ascent. Increased crevasse hazard must be taken into account on the route.
Want to know everything you need to know about climbing Breithorn—one of the classic 4,000ers? Mountain guide Andy Perkins shares his professional tips.
As you approach Zermatt from the Rhone Valley, an alluring wall of snow and rock topped by two shapely domes comes into view. This is Breithorn. It offers routes of varying difficulty, elegant lines, and significantly less stress and fewer crowds than the Matterhorn.
Route options on Breithorn
I will single out three options: the Normal Route (the south-south-west face), the east ridge of the central summit (better known as the Half Traverse of the Breithorn), and the north face via the Triftjigrat. Each of them is an excellent example of alpinism at its own grade and in its own style.
Normal Route (F/PD)
Here you can see everything: dog walkers, people in hiking boots, parties moving unroped on crevassed glacier terrain, and ski mountaineering racers in lycra. Even so, it is an excellent route for getting acquainted with the high alpine environment and, for many, a first 4,000er.
Last week I climbed this route with one of my long-standing clients, Darren, and his 13-year-old daughter Annabel.
We used an approach I often choose: from the Kleine Matterhorn lift, a short walk down the piste, then we roped up at the lowest point, crossed the plateau, and headed onto the moderately steep snow slope. We traversed diagonally right to the col between the western and central summits, then continued to the central summit itself, staying off the highest point because of the cornices. We returned to the col and followed a fine snow arête to the western summit, with excellent views of the east face of Tobleronenhorn. The descent followed skier’s right on the slope back to the cable car.
Half Traverse (AD- III)
In my opinion, this is one of the finest routes of its grade in the Alps. It has everything: a solid snow ridge, reliable rock sections, and huge exposure.
The word “half” in the name may be misleading—the route still makes for a full alpine day on classic Valais ridge terrain. It is a serious route: there have been fatal accidents, and once you are on the ridge, retreat is almost impossible—there is no escape on the left, and on the right there is an enormous drop.
I usually leave the Ayas hut early, head via the Roccia Nera bivouac to the bergschrund, cross it, and climb in a short-rope system to the col at 4,022 m. After a short traverse on ledges, a delicate descending traverse leads left through a small couloir to a rocky rib. Climbing this rib in a few short pitches brings you onto the main ridge proper.
From there, the climbing flows more smoothly: a beautiful slab pitch, then a steeper chimney leading to the final tower. There is a sting in the tail—an unusual move over a small gendarme—before the terrain finally eases and a snow ridge leads to the central summit.
Triftjigrat (D-)
This is classic alpine snow climbing of the highest quality. I have only managed to climb it once, but it was one of my best days in the mountains with the same Darren.
The route is long—over 1,400 m—so good fitness and speed are essential. After breakfast at 2:00 in the Gandegg hut, we descend onto the Theodul Glacier and cross it beneath the face. Then, on a gentle snow slope, we gradually gain height to the left and reach the left side of the spur just before gaining the Triftjiplateau at sunrise.
A rightward traverse across the plateau then leads to a steep couloir descending from the summit. Depending on conditions, you either move in a short-rope system or pitch it. Above, more technical mixed terrain begins and leads to the upper summit slopes of the western summit. The descent follows the Normal Route.
When to go and which routes to choose
Normal Route: possible year-round as long as the lifts are operating. In spring it is a ski mountaineering objective; in summer, a classic ascent. Avalanche hazard exists in winter and after heavy snowfall.
Half Traverse: best after the snow has stabilised. It is usually in condition from late June onward.
Triftjigrat: requires excellent snow conditions. Usually mid to late June, although climate change is shifting the season earlier.
Equipment
Normal Route: a 30 m rope for glacier travel and a crevasse rescue kit.
Half Traverse: a 50 m rope, a set of nuts and slings, and обязательно a crevasse rescue kit.
Triftjigrat: a single 60 m rope, nuts, slings, extra ice screws for building belays, and sometimes snowshoes.
Required skill level
Normal Route: within reach of most experienced mountain walkers, but knowledge of roped glacier travel is required.
Half Traverse: requires confident ropework skills (short-roping, moving on a long rope, short-pitching, and pitching out longer sections). The climbing is roughly around UK V Diff.
Triftjigrat: technically easier than the Half Traverse, but more complex tactically. It requires solid alpine experience.
Planning
The Normal Route can be climbed in a day. For the other routes, acclimatisation is recommended, with at least one night spent between 2,500 and 2,700 m.
The Kleine Matterhorn lift is the main access point for all three routes. An approach from Cervinia is also possible.
The Half Traverse is usually done over two days with an overnight stay at the Ayas hut.
For the Triftjigrat, an overnight stay at the Gandegg is essential.
Technical tips
Normal Route: on the plateau, move on a long rope, often without crampons; before the slope steepens, shorten the rope and put crampons on.
Half Traverse: avoid weekends because of congestion. An early start is essential.
Triftjigrat: study the approach carefully and choose a period with good conditions.
Article author: Andy Perkins (IFMGA Mountain Guide, member of the French and British Mountain Guide Associations)
Source: alp.org.ua