Protection Points — Ice Screws
Today, the primary equipment used to build protection anchors on ice are ice screws. Modern ice gear is laboratory-tested and capable of withstanding high loads (for example, the rated strength of BD screws is 10 kN).
Therefore, the main issue in setting protection on ice is not the equipment, but the quality of the ice itself. This is especially true when climbing on ice waterfalls. It’s very difficult to predict how much weight the ice will withstand in any given situation.
While placing an ice screw, one can only roughly estimate—based on the resistance during turning—whether the placement will hold. However, this requires considerable experience. The resistance should be consistently firm.
To place an ice screw, choose a solid, homogeneous section of ice. There should be no irregularities—bulges, cracks, porous ice, and the like.
Angle of Ice Screw Placement
Ice screws are recommended to be placed perpendicular to the slope, or with a deviation of 10–20 degrees from the vertical.
The choice of angle depends on the nature of the ice. In summer glacier ice, the screw should be placed with a slight upward deviation of 10–20° from the perpendicular to the slope.
In winter or waterfall ice, the screw is placed with a downward deviation of 10–20° along the slope. This reduces the risk of ice fracturing.
The issue is not theoretical strength, but the risk of ice fracturing when placing a screw at an acute angle. In summer, this is less critical. In winter, it becomes important. There is a significant difference between 80° and 100°. The placement shown in the image is suitable for soft, ductile summer ice. Attempting this in winter may cause a lens fracture. In winter, the same 90–100° should be used, but with a more obtuse angle relative to the ice structure.
In recommendations from Western climbers, this (regarding the obtuse placement angle) can often be found in manuals discussing winter ascents, particularly on icefalls.
1. Speed of building an anchor with ice screws. June, Bezengi, altitude 2700–2900 m, no sun (cloud cover all day). Over a period of one to one and a half hours, two top-rope anchors (each with three points) were built on an open glacier with little snow. The ice melted uniformly (both under snow and exposed), and two of the three screws could simply be pulled out vertically.
2. If the ice screw is fully tightened. A dangerous situation occurs when the screw is fully tightened with the hanger oriented upward and there is a temptation to turn it another half rotation to orient it downward. This must not be done, as it destroys the threads formed in the ice. Instead, turn the screw back half a rotation to align it. It is better not to overtighten the screw to full resistance.
Testing Video
Petzl, together with the “Ice Climbing Ecrins” festival, conducted a practical workshop focused on testing the pull-out strength of ice screws and V-threads. A small testing site was set up in the Fournel valley on a frozen stream.
Load tests were carried out using an equalized anchor connected to a jack and chain. Ice screws, V-threads, and ice tools were sequentially attached to the system and tested for pull-out strength. The force was measured using a dynamometer.
The results varied significantly depending on the ice quality. Tests were conducted over two consecutive days, and the results differed noticeably, clearly demonstrating the variability of ice conditions.
On average, however, the tests showed that ice screws have approximately twice the pull-out strength compared to V-threads.
Ice Pitons
An ice piton provides protection in places too narrow for screws (such as grooves or cracks). It can be quickly driven in for temporary protection in difficult situations.
Specifics of Belaying in Ice Climbing
This applies not only to pure ice climbing—ascending steep waterfall or accreted ice—but also to alpine routes where such sections may be encountered.
These specifics are related to the nature of the ice, which differs from the glacier ice familiar to most mountaineers and trekkers: waterfall ice is harder, more brittle, and less uniform. Therefore, higher demands are placed on equipment quality, especially the sharpness of ice screws and the choice of placement.
On steep ice, it is more convenient to place screws at waist level—similar to clipping quickdraws on rock routes. The basic technique is as follows:
- Hold onto a tool placed above your head with a straight arm.
- The second tool is also placed in the ice—this serves as a protection point, with the rope clipped into it (a quickdraw can be used and later transferred to the screw).
- The ice screw is placed one-handed at waist level (which is why it must be sharp).
Using double ropes in ice climbing is essential—it is safer (there is a risk of cutting the rope with your own tools or crampons), and it reduces the load on protection points in a fall.
Ice Anchors
Two basic options: an anchor built with ice screws or using an Abalakov thread or an Andersen thread. In any case, there must be at least two protection points connected with an equalizing sling.
The anchor should be positioned slightly away from the line of ascent (a general rule, also valid in rock climbing). In a fall, the leader must not fall onto the anchor or belayer, and falling ice fragments should not hit the station. On glacier ice, preparing a placement almost always involves clearing snow and ice, which inevitably results in falling debris. On waterfall ice, there is a risk of breaking off large chunks. In winter ice, there is a risk of dislodging ice lenses.
An important factor is ice screw melting out. The longer a screw remains in place, the more it melts out. This is particularly relevant for anchors: during training, when large groups are moving, or when ropes are fixed in advance.
Factors affecting ice screw melting:
1) air temperature above 0°C (titanium has an advantage due to lower thermal conductivity);
2) solar heating;
3) running water—a very powerful factor, especially when the screw is under load. In critical situations, it is advisable to cut a drainage channel to divert water away from the screw.
It is often suggested to cover screws with snow to prevent melting. In reality, covered screws still melt, only slightly slower. However, visual control is lost. Therefore, it is better to monitor their condition and re-place them if necessary. For long-term use, anchors should ideally be backed up with an Abalakov thread.
Rappel Anchors on Ice
Two main techniques allow descent without leaving gear: a retrievable ice screw or an Abalakov (Andersen) thread. Each has its advantages and specific applications.
Retrievable ice screw (threaded system) is a modified ice screw system.
It is mainly used on moderately steep slopes (up to 60–70°) with reliable ice (often in mountain trekking). It does not require expendable gear and is relatively simple to set up. The last climber descends on a single screw, requiring extra caution. Rope tangling during retrieval is possible and requires skill to avoid.
Abalakov (horizontal) or Andersen (vertical) thread. More commonly used on vertical or waterfall ice. Allows multiple points to be equalized if ice quality is uncertain. The last climber descends from a tested anchor. This method requires cord for each station.
Retrievable Ice Screw
Ice Protection Setup, Video
Belay Technique on Vertical Ice
Choosing the placement for an ice screw is the most critical step. Ideally, you should have screws of different lengths: standard 18 cm, four 22 cm screws for anchors, and a couple of short ones for thin ice or icicles.
There is a wide variety of models—this deserves a separate discussion. A simple tip: during practice in a safe setting, try all your screws and borrow others to determine which actually perform well. Discard unreliable ones.
Avoid placing screws in bulges or ice flows. The best option is solid, compact ice cleared of loose surface layers.
Yellow ice is bad. Porous ice is also bad. If the ice fractures in concentric layers while placing a screw—this is also a bad sign.
As for placement angle: in hard ice, it is better to angle the screw slightly downward; in softer ice, slightly upward. If unsure, placing it at 90° is always acceptable.
Ice screws are placed as follows:
Stand securely, preferably on a ledge. Place one tool above your head and hold onto it throughout the process. Place the second tool securely and clip into it with a sling or quickdraw attached to the rope (later transferred to the screw).
Hold the screw between your fingers and press it into the ice with the back of your hand. Make several back-and-forth turns until it becomes stable. Then continue turning using the hanger or handle until it is fully seated. The screw should go in with steady, firm resistance. This is most удобно at waist level.
As in rock climbing, the first protection point should be placed close to the anchor to reduce fall factor, and a protection point is mandatory before difficult sections.
The belayer places tools above the anchor and shifts body weight onto them using slings attached with a clove hitch. This reduces the load on the anchor.
Source: alp.org.ua