The basic requirements for each level of mountaineering training are provided in the curriculum for basic and competitive mountaineering training.
1. FIRST LEVEL OF INITIAL TRAINING: NP-1
Achieved at the first stage of basic training, i.e., for climbing the first mountain of the most basic category – 1B category.
Participants must be at least 18 years old. Participants aged 14 to 18 are allowed to climb with written consent from a parent.
To achieve Level NP-1, you must:
KNOW:
- Characteristics of mountaineering as a sport;
- Characteristics and dangers of mountain nature;
- Basic rules of conduct and safety in the mountains;
- Signs of weather change;
- Basics of mountain orientation;
- Rules and techniques for providing first aid in the mountains;
- justify;”>mountaineering equipment and gear, their use and care.
KNOW HOW TO:
- assess the difficulties and dangers of 1st category climbing routes;
- navigate scree and grassy slopes;
- provide belay for a partner on simple terrain;
- navigate 1st-3rd category slopes with top rope, on fixed ropes with re-climbing, and in a roped group;
- navigate snowy slopes, trample steps, and stop when slipping or falling;
- Move with crampons on moderately steep ice. Self-arrest in case of falls;
- Move roped together on a closed glacier;
- cross a mountain river using an established crossing;
- carry a slightly injured person using improvised means;
- set up a bivouac on a grassy slope or moraine.
COMMIT:
Ascent of 1B difficulty category with an instructor.
2. LEVEL SECOND OF INITIAL TRAINING: NP-2
Achieved during the second stage of initial training – upon achieving the standards of the 3rd sports category in mountaineering.
Participants must be at least 18 years old. Participants aged 16 to 18 are permitted to climb with the written consent of one parent.
Participants must have a certificate indicating at least one ascent of a 1B mountain, or a certificate with recommendations for mountaineering. Before the mountaineering event, complete training, pass tests, and pass standards according to the program.
To achieve level NP-2, you must:
KNOW:
- safety measures when performing mountaineering techniques;
- basics of mountain orientation;
- rules and techniques for first aid;
- rules for organizing and conducting training ascents of 1-2 difficulty categories, rules for preparing route documentation, and UIAA symbols;
- mountain relief forms and their patternsTraining;
- Basic knowledge of climbing tactics;
- Environmental protection measures in the mountains;
- Fundamentals of dynamic belay.
BE ABLE TO:
- Move confidently and reliably across rocky terrain of 1st and 2nd difficulty categories in teams, and lead a team on certain sections of 3rd category;
- Confidently and clearly organize belay and self-belay, using overhangs and your own belay points (hooks and chocks);
Organize fixed ropes and use them for movement; - Organize combined belay, belay a partner in case of a fall;
- Move along moderately steep snow slopes, organizing belay and self-belay;
- perform self-arrests and the arrest of a partner during falls on snow and ice, ensure the safety of yourself and other participants in interaction;
- Move with crampons on moderately steep ice terrain with organized belay;
- Move along a closed glacier, use recovery techniques in case of a fall into a crevasse;
- determine the nature of the injury and organize transportation of the victim using available means.
COMPLETE:
1 ascent of difficulty categories 1-B;
2 ascents of difficulty categories 2-A;
1 ascent of difficulty category 2-B.
PASS:
Transporting a victim using available means.
3. FIRST LEVEL OF SPORTS TRAINING: SP-1
Achieved at the first stage of sports training with partial fulfillment of the second-category standards in mountaineering.
A participant (at least 18 years old) must: have a registered 3rd category in mountaineering (an unregistered one is allowed if the standards have been met in the current season), an athlete’s classification card, a mountaineer’s book, and a pre-camp training record card; A recommendation from the mountaineering instructor (coach) who conducted the training sessions during the preparatory period, and a medical certificate confirming admission to mountaineering.
To achieve level SP-1, you must:
KNOW:
- rules for conducting mountaineering, route classification;
- mountaineering characteristics of the area where the mountaineering will be conducted;
- rules for radio communication and signaling;
- rules for environmental protection in the mountains;
- a brief history of the development of mountaineering and its current state;
- Rules for organizing and conducting ascents by teams of qualified climbers, the basics of tactical training, rules for drawing up tactical plans, and the procedure for preparing route documentation;
- Basics of organizing pulley systems.
KNOW HOW TO:
- Confidently work in a roped team on rocky terrain of category 3 difficulty. Be the first person in a roped team to overcome individual sections of rocky terrain of category 4 difficulty;
- Organize the interaction of roped teams;
- Organize a safety chain, belay points, and stations;
- Organize a place for the descent or ascent of a victim, use transportation techniques on difficult rocky terrain;
- Perform techniques for arresting a person who has fallen at a specially equipped belay point;
- Overcome various forms of snow and ice terrain in a roped team, organize belay, and perform self-arrest in the event of a fall;
- Overcome various forms of rocky terrain in a roped team, organize belay, Self-belay;
- Organize various types of rappelling on all types of mountain terrain;
- Organize a system for self-exit and recovery of a victim from a glacial crevasse.
COMPLETE:
• 3 ascents of 3-A difficulty category.
4. SECOND LEVEL OF SPORTS TRAINING: SP-2
Achieved at the second stage of sports training upon fulfilling the standards of the 2nd sports category, for which it is necessary:
KNOW:
- Fundamentals of organizing and conducting ascents, drawing up tactical plans, rules for solving tactical problems;
- Competition rules, route classification, organizing and conducting ascents;
- Analysis of incidents in the mountains;
- Causes of avalanche danger in the mountains;
- Organizing avalanche searches;
- Safety measures on all types of mountain terrain;
- Rights and responsibilities of the sports group leader;
- Review of the best ascents of the past season;
- Prevention and overcoming of emergency situations.
BE ABLE TO:
- Apply safety measures on all types of mountain terrain;
- Select and evaluate a route;
- Work as the first person in a roped team on various mountain terrain;
- Overcome individual sections of 4-5 category rock terrain;
- Move along difficult snow and ice terrain in roped teams, organize belay and arrest in case of a fall;
- Conduct a search In avalanches, organize the transportation of a victim on ice and snow terrain;
- Organize techniques for arresting a fallen person, securing a rope after a fall, and approaching the victim;
- Use aid and double rope techniques on difficult rock terrain;
- Organize and conduct descents with transfers;
- Develop tactical ascent plans, create route maps using UIAA symbolism;
- Render first aid to the victim, organize and conduct transportation of the victim on difficult rock terrain using improvised means in a small group;
- Analyze expected and emerging sources of objective and subjective danger;
- Ensure personal and group safety.
COMPLETE:
To complete an ascent in a pair, participants must pass a test on the topic “Rescue in a pair.”
1 ascent of 2-A or 2-B difficulty categories as a group leader;
2 ascents of 3-B difficulty categories.
CREDITS:
- according to the regulations of your Alpine Club;
- on first aid;
- on technical preparation for the first ascent in a two-person team (the rescue itself was in a small group).
5. SPORTS IMPROVEMENT LEVEL: CC
Achieved at the stage of sports improvement by achieving the standards of the 1st sports category, for which it is necessary:
KNOW:
- competition rules, route classification, rules for organizing and conducting ascents;
- principles of forming a sports group and its activities;
- rights and responsibilities of the sports group leader;
- procedure for preparing a group for an ascent: psychologicalth, physical, technical, tactical;
- procedure for completing route documents, drawing up tactical plans;
- specific features of climbing tactics: wall, traverse, technical, high-altitude, winter;
- procedure for analyzing incidents in the mountains;
- organization of rescue operations by a small group;
- special equipment for sport climbing;
- procedure for analyzing the work of a sport group;
- parameters monitored at the stages of the ascent;
- principles of organizing safe activities in mountains.
BE ABLE TO:
- make independent decisions;
- analyze your own and your teammates’ work;
- lead a group on a sport climb;
- climb in pairs;
- lead on climbing routes of 4-5 difficulty categories;
- use modern equipment for belaying and overcoming the most difficult terrain – sections of 4-5 difficulty categories;
- provide first aid;
- organize the transportation of the injured person by a small group;
- organize and conduct communication sessions during sport climbs;
- pass tests on mountaineering technique and belaying before setting out on the first ascent of 5A difficulty category;
- ensure personal and group safety.
COMPLETE:
2 ascents of 5A difficulty category, one of which is on a combined or snow-ice route;
1 ascent of 4B difficulty category;
1 ascent of 4B difficulty category in a group of two;
1 ascent of 4A difficulty category;
1 ascent of 4A difficulty category in a group of two;
1 ascent of 3-A (or 3-B) difficulty category as a group leader.
Source: alp.org.ua