Australia is a vast and diverse continent, rich in mountainous terrain that attracts climbers from around the world. The entire continent of Australia is generally considered to be roughly the size of the United States, with a population roughly the size of Greater Los Angeles.
It’s well known that the majority of the population and climbing enthusiasts are concentrated along the country’s east, south, and west coasts, while the interior is a vast and remote wilderness, devoid of both civilization and climbing opportunities. Australia has little to offer in the way of ice climbing, mountaineering, and long, multi-pitch routes, but what it lacks in these areas, it more than makes up for with unique rock climbing opportunities found in few other places on the planet.
The two largest cities, Sydney in New South Wales and Melbourne in Victoria, are home to two of the continent’s premier natural climbing venues: the Blue Mountains and Mount Arapiles, respectively. Any of these areas could be considered world-class, but Arapiles takes things a notch higher and is arguably “the best rock in the world.”
Victoria is home to Australia’s most impressive mountain. Mount Arapiles is just the beginning of a long mountain range known as the Grampians. Stunningly beautiful rock formations are scattered throughout the mountain range… Some are little-known, some are world-famous (for example, the Taipan Wall).
This region offers many excellent opportunities for rock climbing. A few hours’ drive to the east is Mount Buffalo, Australia’s finest granite crag. Buffalo still serves as a training ground for Australian climbers aiming for the high walls of Yosemite, but it is also a popular free climbing destination.
South Australia (Adelaide) is home to Moonarie, a beautiful sandstone crag, while Western Australia (Perth) is considered a prime location for sandstone sport climbing.
Of course, Tasmania deserves a mention. Not only is this island state home to the continent’s only true rock climbing site (Federation Peak) and the world-famous 65m-high Totem Pole popularized by the Lynn Hill/North Face expedition, but it also boasts stunning sandstone cliffs, coastal granite cliffs, and columnar basalt for crack climbing. The tiny state of Tasmania has more rock climbing crags thanThe rest of the continent combined. The weather here is capricious, and access is even more difficult (usually by ferry from Melbourne), but it’s a wonderful climbing spot and definitely worth a visit.
Navigating around the country is generally easy, although distances can be very long. The local population is friendly and laid-back, crime is low, and much of it will be familiar to a Westerner.
Climbing season is year-round, but December and January can be brutally hot. Plan to rent a car, as Without it, you won’t be able to get anywhere.
Beware of driving at dawn and dusk—kangaroo attacks are more common in the US than deer attacks. Other deadly animal reports (almost all) are probably a bit exaggerated. In over seven months spent there over two separate visits, we saw only a few venomous snakes, but no sharks, crocodiles, or venomous spiders. Essential gear for any rock climbing trip throughout the country includes one set of wide-grip cams, extra TCUs/Aliens, and a set of nut holders.
All the gear you need for camping, climbing, and traveling is readily available in major cities and even small towns near major climbing areas. However, be prepared to pay significantly more for imported gear. Traveling alone? Finding partners is easy in Arapiles. In some other areas it can be a little more difficult.
Classic climbing routes in Australia:
And finally, the 7 best climbing areas in Australia in our opinion:
- Wilpena Pounds, Flinders Range, South Australia
- Glass House Mountains, Sunshine Coast, Queensland
- Umbrawarra, Northern Territory
- Mount Arapiles, Victoria
- Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia
- Blue Mountains Mountains, New South Wales
- Cataract Gorge, Tasmania
Source: alp.org.ua