A team of climbers: Matej Prcin from Slovakia, Tomasz Rodzynkiewicz and Marco Schwidergal from Poland made the first ascent of Tumladen Sar (6,232 m) in the Ghujerab Mountains in the Karakoram, Pakistan.
The new route “Flame of the West” is 1800 meters long, and the M5 category was climbed in alpine style from September 21st to 24th. Descent along the southern slope of Tumladen Sar.
The climbers completed the route A steep ice couloir with a slope of up to 85 degrees and several mixed sections up to M5. Heavy snowfall and wind made the ascent very difficult. The team couldn’t find a suitable place for a tent, so they spent the night sitting on the mountainside.
The second day consisted mainly of ice sections with a steepness of up to 80 degrees, plus two mixed sections. The second overnight stay proved more comfortable.
On the third day of the ascent, the climbers traversed a snow-and-ice slope to the ridge leading to the summit. The descent took two days and 10 ropes down to a glacier with severe crevasses and fissures, and then two more rappels along seracs.
“We chose the Gujerab Mountains in the Karakoram because of their remoteness and the many unnamed and unconquered peaks. Our expedition started on September 1st in the village of Shimshal. After four days of trekking to the foot of the mountain, we set up base camp on the Virjerab Glacier, an old Polish base camp. The goal was to climb some”Some of the unclimbed peaks are in Alpine style,” the climbers said in their interview.
Source: alp.org.ua