On October 20, 2025, Italian climbers François Cazzanelli and Giuseppe Vidoni, together with Austrians Benjamin Zörer and Lukas Waldner, made the first ascent of Kinshung (6,781 m) in Nepal. This is the first ascent of this mountain in the history of mountaineering!
Initially, the Italian and Austrian climbers trained separately and did not plan to climb together, but upon arriving in Nepal, they decided to join forces to climb a new route on the mountain.
The new route along the northeast face of Kinshung was named “DESTINY.” It has a difficulty rating of TD, 1,300 m, (60°, AI4, M5).
Mount Kinshung is located on the border with Tibet in Nepal. Due to technical difficulties, remoteness, and objective dangers, the peak is considered a difficult six-thousander. Six previous attempts had been made to conquer the summit, all without success. The difficulty and uniqueness of this first ascent is emphasized.
New route “Destiny” on Kinshung Peak in Nepal
On October 19, the climbers left base camp, set up an assault camp at the foot of the Kinshung Glacier at an altitude of 5,450 meters, and the following morning began an ascent along a new 1,300-meter route, overcoming difficult ice, firn, and mixed terrain. The weather was favorable, and the climbers reached the summit at 12:30 PM, returning safely to base camp at 7:00 PM.
The Kinschung pioneer team: François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni, Benjamin Zörer, Lukas WaldnerCamp at the foot of the Kinshung Glacier at an altitude of 5,450 metersFirst Ascent of Kinschung via New Route
Thus, for Zörer and Waldner, who already have experience making first ascents in difficult high-altitude areas, this ascent marked another important milestone in their careers. Previous Alpine-style ascents by these two experts were always characterized by ease, speed, and coordinated teamwork—without assistance.
For Italian François Cazzanelli, this ascent marks the successful completion of a long journey on this mountain. He had been preparing for Kinschung for over ten years; Previous expeditions had been cancelled due to natural disasters or severe weather conditions. Together with Vidoni, Sörer, and Waldner Cazzanelli, he assembled an experienced team united by mutual trust and determination.
For the four climbers, the route’s name, “FATE,” also symbolizes the many paths, decisions, and encounters that brought them together at the foot of the majestic mountain. and a challenging mountain.
