Italian climbers Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Einard and Giacomo Meliffi have made the first ascent of the “L’oro dello Yukon” route on Middle Huey Spire in the Canadian Cirque of Unlimbables.
Exciting news from Canada, or more precisely, from the legendary Cirque of Unlimbables: a small but strong Italian team of Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Einard and Giacomo Meliffi has successfully established a new route to the summit of Middle Huey Spire.
Expedition sponsored by the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) and the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, left Italy on July 21, inspired by the adventure of Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz, Gerd Heidorn and Leo Reitzner in 1995. Then the Germans reached the Cirque of Unlimbables under their own steam and established a new route, Fitzcarraldo (5.12b, 700 m) on the north face of Huey Spire. Although the 50 bolts they installed during the first ascent caused some confusion at the time, it is worth remembering that these climbers were the first to reach the massif without the help of an airplane or helicopter.
In a short satellite message, Bacci confirmed the ascent: “We are doing well. Heavy rain, but we managed to climb a 400-meter route on 6c/A3 – incredibly difficult, two days of work. L’oro dello Yukon (The Gold of the Yukon), with a difficult finish at the top of Middle Huey Spire. I am proud of the team that gave 100%. The weather has been bad for several days.”
Middle Huey Spire was the main goal of the expedition. Before leaving, Bacci explained: “The Cirque of Unlimbables is one of the most legendary climbing areas in North America, located in the Canadian Yukon. Weather permitting, we hope to make a route either up the Middle Huey Spire or up the 500-meter granite walls of Mount Harrisson Smith. For the return to civilization, we have chosen what we consider to be the most beautiful route: 550 km down the Nahanni River, hoping to raft it in 14 days.”
Source of the news: alp.org.ua