Climbing in alpine style from 6 to 10 June 2025, Czech climbers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of the untouched southeast face of Hunza Peak (7,300 m). This 7,300-metre giant in Pakistan’s Karakoram was first climbed in 1991 via the southwest ridge by British climbers Mick Fowler and Caradog Jones.
Groh and Haque left base camp at 3,200 metres on 6 June and spent the next five days establishing a new route that was later described as technically difficult and dangerous. The 2,300-metre pitch presented a difficulty rating of V+ on rock, WI5 on ice and M6+ on mixed terrain.
Weather conditions made camping on the upper face difficult. Between days four and five, Radoslav and Zdenek spent five hours hacking through a metre-thick ice ledge to spend an uncomfortable night there, constantly remaining tied up to avoid falling while resting. The final assault on the summit required 20 grueling hours of climbing, followed by a long descent to base camp.
For the team, this is another high-altitude achievement after the first ascent of Chumbu (6859 m) in 2022, the first ascent of the western wall of Cholatse (6440 m) in 2023 and the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7453 m) in 2024.
Source: alp.org.ua